The row might have gone unnoticed had it not been preceded by a Greek pensioner suing to stop a Swedish dairy from using his image to promote its yoghurts. In principle, Minas Karatsoglu, 74, says he wasn’t against his face adorning the cartons – although he was shocked to get a call from a friend informing him it had happened. It was more, he said, that the yoghurt was branded “Turkish” and by inference the self-styled patriot from Delphi was “baptised” Turkish, too.

“For my client that was perhaps the biggest insult,” his lawyer was quoted as saying. “They were trying to convince consumers that the product was made according to a genuine Turkish recipe with a Greek man in Greek dress adorning it. We are very happy that while we had sought €5m in damages, the misunderstanding has been clarified with an agreement being reached.”

Yesterday, as Karatsoglu celebrated the €160,000 he had won in compensation – and the Swedish dairy spoke of the matter in disbelief – Athens and Ankara were locked in another debate over national identity, this time involving the “black-eyed” shadow theatre puppet known as the Karaghiozi. Fabled for his ability to outwit Ottoman officials, the character is loved by Greeks raised on the chicanery of their former overlords. Increasingly, however, he has also been claimed by Turkey, where the series originated.

Last year, to the consternation of leading Greek artists, Unesco, the United Nations’ cultural arm, declared the Karagoz, as he is known to Turks, to be exclusively Turkish. “Karaghiozi is an inextricable part of our culture,” said Grigoris Delavekouras, a Greek spokesman. “We have tabled a statement that the same tradition exists in our country and discussion regarding the issue will take place in Nairobi in October.”

The row shows no signs of letting up. As the fracas grew – with George Papandreou, the conciliatory Greek prime minister insisting that “it is better for both countries to have their Karagoz” – the country’s media today called for an “unprecedented national discussion” to be held on the issue.